Did you miss our 2016 holiday newsletter?
Here's a link to our small animal newsletter!
Here's a link to our equine newsletter!
Here's a link to our small animal newsletter!
Here's a link to our equine newsletter!
WINTER 2015/2016
Holiday Pet Tips
Winter Weather and Your Horse
Holiday Pet Tips
- Winter weather can create treacherous footing due to snow and ice. Be sure to use an animal safe ice melt to keep their walkways safe.
- The holiday season can be stressful for pets with guests visiting, strange decorations in the home, the commotion of parties and out of town boarding that some pets experience. Avoid the negative effects of stress with an essential oil diffuser (many pets love lavender oil or a calming blend), a little Bach Flower Rescue Remedy in the water bowl or a calming pheromone plug in diffuser (like feliway or adaptil). If your pet seems particularly stressed by crowds, offer them their own private respite room away from the commotion.
- Avoid “human food” poisons! Most of us remember that chocolate (ever present around the holidays) is poisonous to our pets. Don’t forget to also avoid grapes, raisins, garlic, onions and xylitol (a sweetener found in many peanut butters and chewing gums!).
- Avoid the seasonal poisonous plants! Holly, Ivy, Mistletoe and Poinsettias can all cause gastric irritation if eaten.
- With all due respect, please strongly reconsider giving pets as Christmas presents. If you are considering buying your loved ones a pet as a gift, please don’t do it on impulse. A pet is a big responsibility for the length of its WHOLE life. Research carefully, remember that cute fluffy bundle will grow up and cost money long after the “wow” factor has passed.
Winter Weather and Your Horse
- There are some challenges associated with horse care in colder weather, but by following some simple guidelines you can continue to enjoy your equine companion even as the temperature drops.
- Adequate shelter is a must. If your horse lives outside, a three sided shelter allows them to get out of the wind and wet.
- Provide plenty of fresh hay. Digesting hay (not grain), keeps your horse warm. As the temperature drops, increase their hay ration to help keep them feeling roasty toasty. Round bales are not ideal for horse's respiratory health. Meals of fresh hay, fed multiple times a day, is better for their lungs
- Always provide fresh, ice free water. Insulation and tank heaters can keep your tank free of ice even in the coldest temperatures. Check the water daily to ensure the heater is working properly and the tank hasn’t iced over.
- It is not always necessary to blanket your horse in the winter. If your horse has developed a thick fuzzy coat, it may be possible for them to be naked through the winter. Horses' coats work best when they are clean and dry. Regularly brush off any sand or mud and fluff any hair that has clumped due to precipitation.
- Some horses need blankets. If your horse is clipped (full body or trace clip) they should always be blanketed when not actively working. Some horses, especially seniors, have trouble maintaining their body temperature and they may need a blanket or even an extra layer under their normal blanket. It always pays to be prepared, because even horses who are usually naked may need a blanket on occasion. Two examples are when the weather is wet for an extended period of time (their coats are not able to retain heat as effectively when wet) and if the temperature is extremely cold.
- Check hooves & footing daily. Horses can easily develop snowballs (packed snow and ice) on the soles of their feet that make walking difficult if not dangerous. Pick their feet out daily! Always check the footing in your horse's paddock and riding area to make sure it's not dangerous. If ice builds up, chicken scratch & kitty litter can help provide traction.
September 2015
Itch, itch itch. Scratch, scratch, scratch. For many animals, who suffer from allergies, this can be a very itchy time of year. Like people, some animals only have seasonal allergies but some are unlucky enough to have year round allergies. Individual allergies can be toward things like dust, mold, plants and even foods. When an animal is allergic, they might be itchy or scratchy, have irritated skin, hives, a cough, runny eyes or nose, or they might have trouble breathing well.
It is important to pay close attention to any changes you might have made if your pet starts to exhibit symptoms. Did you change food, shampoo, skin or coat spray, fly spray, bedding, equipment, etc? Knowing what might have changed in the daily life of your four legged friend can sometimes help to indicate a potential allergen.
Sometimes the treatment for allergies includes medication, a diet change, an environment change or integrated care!
Fortunately, acupuncture and chiropractic can be used to help with the symptoms of allergies and respiratory conditions related to allergies like heaves. In some patients, supplements and Chinese Herbs can be used to help manage symptoms.
Like people, if it is know that your pet has allergies, it is best to start preventative treatment before allergy season starts.
Itch, itch itch. Scratch, scratch, scratch. For many animals, who suffer from allergies, this can be a very itchy time of year. Like people, some animals only have seasonal allergies but some are unlucky enough to have year round allergies. Individual allergies can be toward things like dust, mold, plants and even foods. When an animal is allergic, they might be itchy or scratchy, have irritated skin, hives, a cough, runny eyes or nose, or they might have trouble breathing well.
It is important to pay close attention to any changes you might have made if your pet starts to exhibit symptoms. Did you change food, shampoo, skin or coat spray, fly spray, bedding, equipment, etc? Knowing what might have changed in the daily life of your four legged friend can sometimes help to indicate a potential allergen.
Sometimes the treatment for allergies includes medication, a diet change, an environment change or integrated care!
Fortunately, acupuncture and chiropractic can be used to help with the symptoms of allergies and respiratory conditions related to allergies like heaves. In some patients, supplements and Chinese Herbs can be used to help manage symptoms.
Like people, if it is know that your pet has allergies, it is best to start preventative treatment before allergy season starts.
Fall 2015
Trail Riding Etiquette
We want all of our clients and patients to be safe. So as you prepare for fall trail riding don't forget to think about "trail manners" or trail etiquette
Proper trail riding etiquette is important for everyone's safety.
Here are some good rules to follow while out on the trail:
* Nominate a leader.
* Ride at the level and speed of the least experienced rider.
* Keep at least 10 feet between each horse.
* Ask the whole group before increasing speed.
* Communicate all concerns - if dangers noted on the trail, the leader needs to tell next behind of the problem and have them pass it on down the line.
* Have your cell phone on you, not on the horse.
* Always have a trail map and first aid kit (for you and your horse) on you
* All children must wear ASTM/SEI-approved helmets. Adults should too! Replace helmets after any fall.
* Make sure your horse has the opportunity to drink at every water crossing.
* the return to the barn or trailer should be at walking pace.
* Check your horse's feet and legs carefully after riding.
* Pick feet and groom or wash your horse before and after every ride.
Before you go:
* Make sure that your horse is ready to trail ride. Horses need to build their muscle strength and endurance gradually, just like humans.
* Take the time to condition and desensitize your horse well in advance of a trail ride. Example: ride up hills regularly before a hilly ride. Arena riding generally is not enough conditioning for trail riding.
* Check your tack regularly for proper fit.
* Hoof care! Hoof care! Hoof care! Talk with your horse’s farrier about proper shoeing.
* Check feet and legs carefully.
* Pick feet and groom or wash your horse.
Proper etiquette goes for cars too!
* Cars should approach horses slowly.
* Drivers should watch for hand signals from the rider.
* Cars should give a wide, slow pass and take off slowly.
* Cars should never blow the horn.
*The driver should stop and turn off the car if they notice a horse starting to act up.
Here is a great article on the subject by one of our clients:
SURVIVAL INSTINCT, HERD DYNAMIC, & TRAIL ETIQUETTE
Things to Consider When Riding in a Group The natural instincts of a horse can affect the pleasure and safety of your trail ride. When riding in a group it is a good idea to remember the natural instincts of the horse. You have now taken your horse out of his/her home environment and put it smack dap in the middle of the wilderness. We might think that horses originated from the wild so they should be at home in the great outdoors. But really here in Wisconsin the average horse is kept in a holding area much different from where we trail ride. So it would be normal for them to be more alert and their natural instincts heighten while on the trail compared to their home setting. Let’s not forget that horses are as different as people. Some are more confident or timid than others. When riding in a group good trail etiquette would require taking this into consideration. Some horses may seem like their natural instincts do not come into play at all. While others may react if the rider sneezes or someone’s cell phone goes off. That is one extreme to the other, most horses fall somewhere in the middle of that. No matter where your horse falls on the scale of being calm or reactive it is a living, feeling, thinking animal capable of forming opinions. Horses are not any thing like a bicycle or motorized vehicle. They very much have opinions on how they are being handled, how their tack fits and what is going on around them. Today’s natural training encourages a horse to be curious and brave, not dead in the brain. Before moving on I want to take just a brief moment to say poor fitting tack can make your horse more reactive. Pain from being pinch by a bit or saddle can cause the horse to bolt or worse. If they associate the pain to their tack you may have a hard time getting it on them. If your horse is tossing its head when bridled or does not want to accept the saddle you may have tack issues. Remember a horse normally raises to the level of his/her rider/handler. What does that mean? Well there are different variations, but if you have an unconfident horse and an unconfident rider out on the trail they need extra considerations. Maybe someone is riding a young horse for the first time on the trail and they are a bit nervous about doing so. Well that young unsure horse can feel the uncertain nerves of the rider and things can go south real fast. Same is true of a horse that may be known to be a solid horse with someone who is confident. But put an unconfident rider on the horse and you may see that horse is not as confident as everyone thought. The point is a horse is as intuitive to rider/handler emotions as it is to the energy of the horses it is with. For safety sake, when riding with others be sure to ask what their comfort level is and ride accordingly. It is best to take horses new to trail riding out with well seasoned horses and riders who are willing to be considerate of your needs. By considerate I mean someone who will wait for you to help your horse adapt to a scary object and will practice good trail etiquette. This is a good way to set your horse up to be successful on the trail versus becoming a spooky horse you really don’t want to ride. Of course I would recommend good despooking exercises before you take that youngster out on the trail. If at all possible prepare the young horse for the trail by ponying it along side a good seasoned horse. But the reality is there is only so much you can do at home. There are several variations that can make a horse feel uneasy. You will never be able to address them all at home. It will take several miles and many years of exposure to new things to make a good seasoned horse. That said even seasoned horses can spook on occasion. Let’s consider the horse’s natural survival instinct of flight and what can set it off when riding with others. Another horse spooking at something can for sure set off a chain reaction causing your horse to spook as well. But in this case we are going to address what kind of poor trail etiquette can cause another horse to go into flight mode. Another horse running past you can certainly cause your horse to pop into flight mode. Horses feel safer amongst a herd than when alone. They look to each other as a kind of warning flag. All it takes is one horse to take off running like it is about to be eaten and the rest will react. Even just a raise of another horses head can cause the whole herd to take a look at what is going on around them. So when a horse comes running past or takes off in front of them they don’t want to wait to be eaten, they just want to save themselves. Kind of like that joke how fast do you have to run to not be eaten by a grizzly bear? Faster than your buddy. When one horse takes off the remaining horse(s) will naturally want to run just as fast or faster to not be eaten by what ever predator may be approaching. So what to do with the high energy horse that needs to stretch out on the trail? You are out riding with slower moving horses and not very confident riders. You don’t want to continue holding your horse back, not an enjoyable ride, understandable. Maybe you need to release your horse and allow it to run so it can come back and relax. How do you do this without setting off the other horses you are riding with? First I would suggest that you take your horse to the back of the group. Then turn it around and gallop away from the other horses. Your friends are moving forward gradually while you are doing this but running away from the back of the horses will not set them off nearly as much as if you pass or run out in front of them. Communicate with the group ahead of time that you need to do this. Be sure they wait on you at the next intersection of the trail. The goal here is to give your horse the opportunity to release some built up or nervous energy not to ride separately. Some horses with greater natural impulsion like Arabs may require you ride back and forth several times before they can relax. Another important thing to remember when you turn your horse and ride back to the group is that you don’t come running right up on their butts. That can also cause an undesirable reaction. Instead be sure your horse is able to approach at a walk from over a hundred feet away. If you are the slower rider and a horse comes running up from behind there are things you can do. Chances are if you have your ears open you will hear that rider coming in plenty of time before it sets off your horse. Disengage your horse’s hindquarters so it is looking at the approaching horse. This will prevent your horse from bolting forward or possibly kicking the approaching horse. Your horse may be a bit fearful of the horse that is running at him and may continue to want to turn and run. Keep him facing the approaching horse and talk to your horse in a reassuring tone so they know you are not afraid of the situation. If a rider has come off and their horse is rushing towards you and you know it is going to keep running right past you the best thing you can do is keep your horse looking at it as it passes. This is very much the same as a horse that may be fearful of traffic. You should continue to keep your horse pointed in the direction of what is scaring it. At this point I want to say there is not a rider out there that should not know how to disengage their horse’s hindquarters. If you don’t know how to, for safety sake, learn it! There are all sorts of educational material, trainers, and instructors that should be able to help you learn this very important safety tool. For now I’m moving forward assuming you know how to disengage your horse’s hindquarters. But first I’m going to point out this is so important because the hindquarters of your horse is the engine that propels you both forward along the trail. If you don’t have control of this you really are out of control. If there are only two of you riding out together separating may not be an option at all. That may cause the slower more relaxed horse to become nervous. In this case look for an opportunity along the trail to release the more anxious horse. Maybe there is a safe clearing you can do some circles in, or perhaps on a wide enough trail you can ride circles around your companion. Some times just putting that anxious horse in front is enough for it to relax. If you find that does not help you can try directing that energy into lateral movements. Try leg yielding and side passing out in front of the group. It is a pretty show to watch and your horse may find it really does not want to work that hard and will be happy to come down to the walk. Every horse and rider combination is different you will need to explore options to know what will work best for your situation. Good trail etiquette is a two way street, less confident and slower riders need to be considerate of the needs of their trail companions as well. If different level of riders would just be considerate of each others needs there is no reason they can’t ride together. It is just a matter of good communication and patience. If you find yourself in a large group with a mix of faster and slower riders you may just want to agree to split into groups accordingly. Some times the more horses there are on the trail the more anxious a horse can get. Breaking it down into smaller groups may just be what your horse needs. You can always work on increasing the size of group it rides with gradually. How does herd dynamics come into play on the trail? Horses are territorial and do not automatically accept newcomers to the herd. Remember just because you are friends with your trail riding partner(s) does not necessarily mean your horses will automatically be friends. Just like humans every horse has personal space. How would you feel if a complete stranger or someone you’re not comfortable with invaded your space? Would it make you feel uneasy if you were going for a hike and someone you never met or socialized with came and walked right along side of you? So close to you that you could not even extend an arm to protect yourself if you had to? Or maybe they came up from behind so close you could feel them breathing down your neck. Is your natural instinct to be okay with that invasion of space or would it make you uneasy? When out trail riding with a group of horses, that are normally not pastured together, you have formed a new herd. When ever a new herd is formed a pecking order is to be established. In the perfect world your horse will recognize you as the Alpha in any herd it is a part of. But does that mean if it feels threaten by another horse it will not defend itself? Horses normally don’t flee from each other. Instead they run up to each other, sniff, and immediately go into establishing a pecking order. Of course once the pecking order is established the more dominant horse will occasionally chase the other to prove its point. I have found my horse likes black horses. Not sure why maybe it is because he grew up with one. Also have discovered he is not a fan of grey Arab mares on the trail. Thinking this may be because he has one in his pasture that pushes him around. There is no way for me to know for sure why my horse reacts differently towards different horses. But he for sure is a living creature with his very own opinions, which I do not always understand. What is important is to remember horses have personal space. When riding a strange horse into another horses personal space they may feel threaten and could act out. Often as you approach a horse on the trail they will show well in advance if they are comfortable with your horse. You may see their ears pin back, a tail swish, or a slight lift of a hip threatening to kick, or maybe they will turn their head and give your horse an ugly look. As if to say I don’t know you and you do not have my permission to invade my space. Just because a horse can get along with several other horses does not mean it will get along with every horse. We may not understand why it does not like a horse, but they will normally let you know it. Take responsibility for your safety and the safety of your horse. Pay attention to the horses you are riding around and avoid invading the space of a horse that does not want you there. For those of us that have opinionated horses it is our responsibility to discipline a horse for undesirable behavior. Just as it is a parent’s responsibility to discipline a child for fighting with another. That undesirable behavior will not get any better if there is no consequence for it. If I’m on a horse that goes to kick another I like to disengage the hindquarters in several little circles in a way that hopefully reminds him that when I am riding him I have control of the engine. For a horse that bites I normally keep my reins short enough to be able to keep the bite from happening and the bump he gets with the reins is not comfortable. Most horses though while on the trail do not search out others to go kick and bite. It is not in their nature to purposely be mean to each other. Kicking and biting is normally a reaction to the invasion of personal space. Remember in the pasture if a horse comes running up on another it is normally because it wants to bite them on the butt and take their hay away. So when trail riding and a horse comes running up on another it may want to move out of the way. But the rider holds him back leaving no other option but for that horse to protect itself. Good trail etiquette can prevent setting up a bad situation. If you need to pass another horse on the trail watch for signs from the horses to see if there is going to be a problem. You may need to wait until the trail is wide enough to safely pass. The one being passed may need to pull off to the side or disengage their horse’s hindquarters. The rider being passed might be talking away riding on a loose rein and have no idea you are coming up from behind or along side. Be sure to warn that rider you need to pass and on what side you plan to pass on. Before passing the rider make sure they are okay with the situation and you both feel as if it is safe to pass. Try to avoid passing at a faster gait than a walk as to not add fuel to the fire. The things covered in this article may or may not come into play at all if you ride with horses that are use to each other. If you ride in a regular group and your horses get along great! No Problem! But when you branch out and include others or join others or perhaps find yourself on an organized trail ride these things should be taken into consideration. If you feel you are a timid rider and not comfortable with faster riding it is your responsibility to make that known. Most groups have some one that takes the lead. If you are that person ask what the comfort level of the riders are before heading out. For sure check with your group to make sure it is okay to move up from a walk to a trot or canter before doing so. At the very least you want everyone to be ready to move forward together. Once a faster pace is picked up avoid passing. For safety passing of horses should really only be done on the trail at a walk. I tried to cover the topics not normally discussed when it comes to trail etiquette. The Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources also offers a Wisconsin Trail etiquette Safety Guidelines brochure for all trail users. It can be found online at http://dnr.wi.gov/files/PDF/pubs/pr/PR0472.pdf
Article by: Bauer’s Horse Connection
Amy Bauer
Trail Riding Etiquette
We want all of our clients and patients to be safe. So as you prepare for fall trail riding don't forget to think about "trail manners" or trail etiquette
Proper trail riding etiquette is important for everyone's safety.
Here are some good rules to follow while out on the trail:
* Nominate a leader.
* Ride at the level and speed of the least experienced rider.
* Keep at least 10 feet between each horse.
* Ask the whole group before increasing speed.
* Communicate all concerns - if dangers noted on the trail, the leader needs to tell next behind of the problem and have them pass it on down the line.
* Have your cell phone on you, not on the horse.
* Always have a trail map and first aid kit (for you and your horse) on you
* All children must wear ASTM/SEI-approved helmets. Adults should too! Replace helmets after any fall.
* Make sure your horse has the opportunity to drink at every water crossing.
* the return to the barn or trailer should be at walking pace.
* Check your horse's feet and legs carefully after riding.
* Pick feet and groom or wash your horse before and after every ride.
Before you go:
* Make sure that your horse is ready to trail ride. Horses need to build their muscle strength and endurance gradually, just like humans.
* Take the time to condition and desensitize your horse well in advance of a trail ride. Example: ride up hills regularly before a hilly ride. Arena riding generally is not enough conditioning for trail riding.
* Check your tack regularly for proper fit.
* Hoof care! Hoof care! Hoof care! Talk with your horse’s farrier about proper shoeing.
* Check feet and legs carefully.
* Pick feet and groom or wash your horse.
Proper etiquette goes for cars too!
* Cars should approach horses slowly.
* Drivers should watch for hand signals from the rider.
* Cars should give a wide, slow pass and take off slowly.
* Cars should never blow the horn.
*The driver should stop and turn off the car if they notice a horse starting to act up.
Here is a great article on the subject by one of our clients:
SURVIVAL INSTINCT, HERD DYNAMIC, & TRAIL ETIQUETTE
Things to Consider When Riding in a Group The natural instincts of a horse can affect the pleasure and safety of your trail ride. When riding in a group it is a good idea to remember the natural instincts of the horse. You have now taken your horse out of his/her home environment and put it smack dap in the middle of the wilderness. We might think that horses originated from the wild so they should be at home in the great outdoors. But really here in Wisconsin the average horse is kept in a holding area much different from where we trail ride. So it would be normal for them to be more alert and their natural instincts heighten while on the trail compared to their home setting. Let’s not forget that horses are as different as people. Some are more confident or timid than others. When riding in a group good trail etiquette would require taking this into consideration. Some horses may seem like their natural instincts do not come into play at all. While others may react if the rider sneezes or someone’s cell phone goes off. That is one extreme to the other, most horses fall somewhere in the middle of that. No matter where your horse falls on the scale of being calm or reactive it is a living, feeling, thinking animal capable of forming opinions. Horses are not any thing like a bicycle or motorized vehicle. They very much have opinions on how they are being handled, how their tack fits and what is going on around them. Today’s natural training encourages a horse to be curious and brave, not dead in the brain. Before moving on I want to take just a brief moment to say poor fitting tack can make your horse more reactive. Pain from being pinch by a bit or saddle can cause the horse to bolt or worse. If they associate the pain to their tack you may have a hard time getting it on them. If your horse is tossing its head when bridled or does not want to accept the saddle you may have tack issues. Remember a horse normally raises to the level of his/her rider/handler. What does that mean? Well there are different variations, but if you have an unconfident horse and an unconfident rider out on the trail they need extra considerations. Maybe someone is riding a young horse for the first time on the trail and they are a bit nervous about doing so. Well that young unsure horse can feel the uncertain nerves of the rider and things can go south real fast. Same is true of a horse that may be known to be a solid horse with someone who is confident. But put an unconfident rider on the horse and you may see that horse is not as confident as everyone thought. The point is a horse is as intuitive to rider/handler emotions as it is to the energy of the horses it is with. For safety sake, when riding with others be sure to ask what their comfort level is and ride accordingly. It is best to take horses new to trail riding out with well seasoned horses and riders who are willing to be considerate of your needs. By considerate I mean someone who will wait for you to help your horse adapt to a scary object and will practice good trail etiquette. This is a good way to set your horse up to be successful on the trail versus becoming a spooky horse you really don’t want to ride. Of course I would recommend good despooking exercises before you take that youngster out on the trail. If at all possible prepare the young horse for the trail by ponying it along side a good seasoned horse. But the reality is there is only so much you can do at home. There are several variations that can make a horse feel uneasy. You will never be able to address them all at home. It will take several miles and many years of exposure to new things to make a good seasoned horse. That said even seasoned horses can spook on occasion. Let’s consider the horse’s natural survival instinct of flight and what can set it off when riding with others. Another horse spooking at something can for sure set off a chain reaction causing your horse to spook as well. But in this case we are going to address what kind of poor trail etiquette can cause another horse to go into flight mode. Another horse running past you can certainly cause your horse to pop into flight mode. Horses feel safer amongst a herd than when alone. They look to each other as a kind of warning flag. All it takes is one horse to take off running like it is about to be eaten and the rest will react. Even just a raise of another horses head can cause the whole herd to take a look at what is going on around them. So when a horse comes running past or takes off in front of them they don’t want to wait to be eaten, they just want to save themselves. Kind of like that joke how fast do you have to run to not be eaten by a grizzly bear? Faster than your buddy. When one horse takes off the remaining horse(s) will naturally want to run just as fast or faster to not be eaten by what ever predator may be approaching. So what to do with the high energy horse that needs to stretch out on the trail? You are out riding with slower moving horses and not very confident riders. You don’t want to continue holding your horse back, not an enjoyable ride, understandable. Maybe you need to release your horse and allow it to run so it can come back and relax. How do you do this without setting off the other horses you are riding with? First I would suggest that you take your horse to the back of the group. Then turn it around and gallop away from the other horses. Your friends are moving forward gradually while you are doing this but running away from the back of the horses will not set them off nearly as much as if you pass or run out in front of them. Communicate with the group ahead of time that you need to do this. Be sure they wait on you at the next intersection of the trail. The goal here is to give your horse the opportunity to release some built up or nervous energy not to ride separately. Some horses with greater natural impulsion like Arabs may require you ride back and forth several times before they can relax. Another important thing to remember when you turn your horse and ride back to the group is that you don’t come running right up on their butts. That can also cause an undesirable reaction. Instead be sure your horse is able to approach at a walk from over a hundred feet away. If you are the slower rider and a horse comes running up from behind there are things you can do. Chances are if you have your ears open you will hear that rider coming in plenty of time before it sets off your horse. Disengage your horse’s hindquarters so it is looking at the approaching horse. This will prevent your horse from bolting forward or possibly kicking the approaching horse. Your horse may be a bit fearful of the horse that is running at him and may continue to want to turn and run. Keep him facing the approaching horse and talk to your horse in a reassuring tone so they know you are not afraid of the situation. If a rider has come off and their horse is rushing towards you and you know it is going to keep running right past you the best thing you can do is keep your horse looking at it as it passes. This is very much the same as a horse that may be fearful of traffic. You should continue to keep your horse pointed in the direction of what is scaring it. At this point I want to say there is not a rider out there that should not know how to disengage their horse’s hindquarters. If you don’t know how to, for safety sake, learn it! There are all sorts of educational material, trainers, and instructors that should be able to help you learn this very important safety tool. For now I’m moving forward assuming you know how to disengage your horse’s hindquarters. But first I’m going to point out this is so important because the hindquarters of your horse is the engine that propels you both forward along the trail. If you don’t have control of this you really are out of control. If there are only two of you riding out together separating may not be an option at all. That may cause the slower more relaxed horse to become nervous. In this case look for an opportunity along the trail to release the more anxious horse. Maybe there is a safe clearing you can do some circles in, or perhaps on a wide enough trail you can ride circles around your companion. Some times just putting that anxious horse in front is enough for it to relax. If you find that does not help you can try directing that energy into lateral movements. Try leg yielding and side passing out in front of the group. It is a pretty show to watch and your horse may find it really does not want to work that hard and will be happy to come down to the walk. Every horse and rider combination is different you will need to explore options to know what will work best for your situation. Good trail etiquette is a two way street, less confident and slower riders need to be considerate of the needs of their trail companions as well. If different level of riders would just be considerate of each others needs there is no reason they can’t ride together. It is just a matter of good communication and patience. If you find yourself in a large group with a mix of faster and slower riders you may just want to agree to split into groups accordingly. Some times the more horses there are on the trail the more anxious a horse can get. Breaking it down into smaller groups may just be what your horse needs. You can always work on increasing the size of group it rides with gradually. How does herd dynamics come into play on the trail? Horses are territorial and do not automatically accept newcomers to the herd. Remember just because you are friends with your trail riding partner(s) does not necessarily mean your horses will automatically be friends. Just like humans every horse has personal space. How would you feel if a complete stranger or someone you’re not comfortable with invaded your space? Would it make you feel uneasy if you were going for a hike and someone you never met or socialized with came and walked right along side of you? So close to you that you could not even extend an arm to protect yourself if you had to? Or maybe they came up from behind so close you could feel them breathing down your neck. Is your natural instinct to be okay with that invasion of space or would it make you uneasy? When out trail riding with a group of horses, that are normally not pastured together, you have formed a new herd. When ever a new herd is formed a pecking order is to be established. In the perfect world your horse will recognize you as the Alpha in any herd it is a part of. But does that mean if it feels threaten by another horse it will not defend itself? Horses normally don’t flee from each other. Instead they run up to each other, sniff, and immediately go into establishing a pecking order. Of course once the pecking order is established the more dominant horse will occasionally chase the other to prove its point. I have found my horse likes black horses. Not sure why maybe it is because he grew up with one. Also have discovered he is not a fan of grey Arab mares on the trail. Thinking this may be because he has one in his pasture that pushes him around. There is no way for me to know for sure why my horse reacts differently towards different horses. But he for sure is a living creature with his very own opinions, which I do not always understand. What is important is to remember horses have personal space. When riding a strange horse into another horses personal space they may feel threaten and could act out. Often as you approach a horse on the trail they will show well in advance if they are comfortable with your horse. You may see their ears pin back, a tail swish, or a slight lift of a hip threatening to kick, or maybe they will turn their head and give your horse an ugly look. As if to say I don’t know you and you do not have my permission to invade my space. Just because a horse can get along with several other horses does not mean it will get along with every horse. We may not understand why it does not like a horse, but they will normally let you know it. Take responsibility for your safety and the safety of your horse. Pay attention to the horses you are riding around and avoid invading the space of a horse that does not want you there. For those of us that have opinionated horses it is our responsibility to discipline a horse for undesirable behavior. Just as it is a parent’s responsibility to discipline a child for fighting with another. That undesirable behavior will not get any better if there is no consequence for it. If I’m on a horse that goes to kick another I like to disengage the hindquarters in several little circles in a way that hopefully reminds him that when I am riding him I have control of the engine. For a horse that bites I normally keep my reins short enough to be able to keep the bite from happening and the bump he gets with the reins is not comfortable. Most horses though while on the trail do not search out others to go kick and bite. It is not in their nature to purposely be mean to each other. Kicking and biting is normally a reaction to the invasion of personal space. Remember in the pasture if a horse comes running up on another it is normally because it wants to bite them on the butt and take their hay away. So when trail riding and a horse comes running up on another it may want to move out of the way. But the rider holds him back leaving no other option but for that horse to protect itself. Good trail etiquette can prevent setting up a bad situation. If you need to pass another horse on the trail watch for signs from the horses to see if there is going to be a problem. You may need to wait until the trail is wide enough to safely pass. The one being passed may need to pull off to the side or disengage their horse’s hindquarters. The rider being passed might be talking away riding on a loose rein and have no idea you are coming up from behind or along side. Be sure to warn that rider you need to pass and on what side you plan to pass on. Before passing the rider make sure they are okay with the situation and you both feel as if it is safe to pass. Try to avoid passing at a faster gait than a walk as to not add fuel to the fire. The things covered in this article may or may not come into play at all if you ride with horses that are use to each other. If you ride in a regular group and your horses get along great! No Problem! But when you branch out and include others or join others or perhaps find yourself on an organized trail ride these things should be taken into consideration. If you feel you are a timid rider and not comfortable with faster riding it is your responsibility to make that known. Most groups have some one that takes the lead. If you are that person ask what the comfort level of the riders are before heading out. For sure check with your group to make sure it is okay to move up from a walk to a trot or canter before doing so. At the very least you want everyone to be ready to move forward together. Once a faster pace is picked up avoid passing. For safety passing of horses should really only be done on the trail at a walk. I tried to cover the topics not normally discussed when it comes to trail etiquette. The Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources also offers a Wisconsin Trail etiquette Safety Guidelines brochure for all trail users. It can be found online at http://dnr.wi.gov/files/PDF/pubs/pr/PR0472.pdf
Article by: Bauer’s Horse Connection
Amy Bauer
June 2015
Cats need integrated care too! Most of our patients at NBVS are dogs and horses. We do have some dedicated clients that bring their cats in for acupuncture and chiropractic care. In addition to treating medical issues, acupuncture can be a great tool to help deal with many cat behavior problems.
Cats can be a little more stressed out by car rides than dogs, but there are some simple ways you can help make the trip calmer for your cat. The American Association of Feline Practitioners has pretty much the best brochure on earth for getting your cat to the vet. ( http://www.catvets.com/public/PDFs/ClientBrochures/Cat-to-VetHandout.pdf )
With their tips, including the use of Feliway ( www.feliway.com/us ), you can work to make your cat's trip to see us much less stressful.
Cats need integrated care too! Most of our patients at NBVS are dogs and horses. We do have some dedicated clients that bring their cats in for acupuncture and chiropractic care. In addition to treating medical issues, acupuncture can be a great tool to help deal with many cat behavior problems.
Cats can be a little more stressed out by car rides than dogs, but there are some simple ways you can help make the trip calmer for your cat. The American Association of Feline Practitioners has pretty much the best brochure on earth for getting your cat to the vet. ( http://www.catvets.com/public/PDFs/ClientBrochures/Cat-to-VetHandout.pdf )
With their tips, including the use of Feliway ( www.feliway.com/us ), you can work to make your cat's trip to see us much less stressful.
April 2015
As many of you may have heard by now, there was an outbreak of a new strain of canine influenza in the Chicago area. There have been no cases reported in the Green Bay/Appleton area as of yet. Canine Influenza can cause depression, lethargy, fever, coughing, runny nose and loss of appetite in both dogs and cats. There is a canine influenza vaccine available, but it is formulated to cover the past strain, not the current one. It is currently unknown if the vaccine will create any protection for the current outbreak.. The best way to protect your pets is to keep them at home. Avoid boarding, grooming, dog shows, competitions, doggy day care or dog parks until the outbreak has passed. This will minimize your contact with the virus. If you should become in contact with an ill dog, make sure to disinfect yourself before heading home to your pooch. Wash all areas that have come in contact with a potentially ill dog or cat, including yourself, your clothes and your shoes.
As many of you may have heard by now, there was an outbreak of a new strain of canine influenza in the Chicago area. There have been no cases reported in the Green Bay/Appleton area as of yet. Canine Influenza can cause depression, lethargy, fever, coughing, runny nose and loss of appetite in both dogs and cats. There is a canine influenza vaccine available, but it is formulated to cover the past strain, not the current one. It is currently unknown if the vaccine will create any protection for the current outbreak.. The best way to protect your pets is to keep them at home. Avoid boarding, grooming, dog shows, competitions, doggy day care or dog parks until the outbreak has passed. This will minimize your contact with the virus. If you should become in contact with an ill dog, make sure to disinfect yourself before heading home to your pooch. Wash all areas that have come in contact with a potentially ill dog or cat, including yourself, your clothes and your shoes.
MARCH 2015
Goodbye winter, hello spring! Mud season is coming! Special care should be taken with your horses feet and ankles during the muddy months to prevent Thrush and Scratches.
Thrush is an infection on the sole of the foot (usually deep in the grooves by the frog) and scratches is a skin infection on the pasterns.
To avoid thrush, pick out their hooves regularly and allow the feet dry time (where they are not standing in mud). If the crevices of their frogs have stinky black material in them, apply a topical thrush remedy from Fleet Farm to kill the infection.
To avoid scratches, try to keep the pasterns clean and dry as well. Scratches often shows up with thickly crusted lesions. If that happens, you can scrub them with an iodine based shampoo. There are LOTS of recipes for "scratches cures", but the real secret cure is doing your best to remove the crusts and then dry the skin REALLY well after washing. If the skin stays moist it will perpetuate the infection.
In an ideal world, our horses would have a lean to, stall or raised area where they can get out of the mud routinely.
Goodbye winter, hello spring! Mud season is coming! Special care should be taken with your horses feet and ankles during the muddy months to prevent Thrush and Scratches.
Thrush is an infection on the sole of the foot (usually deep in the grooves by the frog) and scratches is a skin infection on the pasterns.
To avoid thrush, pick out their hooves regularly and allow the feet dry time (where they are not standing in mud). If the crevices of their frogs have stinky black material in them, apply a topical thrush remedy from Fleet Farm to kill the infection.
To avoid scratches, try to keep the pasterns clean and dry as well. Scratches often shows up with thickly crusted lesions. If that happens, you can scrub them with an iodine based shampoo. There are LOTS of recipes for "scratches cures", but the real secret cure is doing your best to remove the crusts and then dry the skin REALLY well after washing. If the skin stays moist it will perpetuate the infection.
In an ideal world, our horses would have a lean to, stall or raised area where they can get out of the mud routinely.
February 2015
Love is in the air. With Valentines Day just around the corner please be mindful of the tokens of love you give and receive. Chocolate and Wine are toxic to our pets. Lilies and certain other flowers can kill a cat. The ASPCA Animal Poison Control has a great list of what is toxic to your pet an what is not. Roses are a safe flower to have in the home, they are nontoxic to cats. Take a look at: https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control for the most extensive lists of what is safe and what is not.
Love is in the air. With Valentines Day just around the corner please be mindful of the tokens of love you give and receive. Chocolate and Wine are toxic to our pets. Lilies and certain other flowers can kill a cat. The ASPCA Animal Poison Control has a great list of what is toxic to your pet an what is not. Roses are a safe flower to have in the home, they are nontoxic to cats. Take a look at: https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control for the most extensive lists of what is safe and what is not.
NOVEMBER 2014
Thanksgiving is just around the corner with all of it's yummy treats. Perhaps you are thinking of making your dog or cat a special treat for the big day. In Traditional Chinese Medicine, food is looked at differently. Food is considered to have therapeutic properties, like an extension of herbs. Foods have the ability to influence the level of Yin or Yang within you. Your pet may need a little more yin, so a pet friendly version of turkey, stuffing and cranberry would be a great treat. Maybe they need a little more yang, so ham and pet version of pumpkin pie should be on their plate. A yin/yang balanced treat could be an egg, carrot, pea and apple pie. With any of these treats always hold the butter and sugar, a case of pancreatitis is not a fun way for you or your pet to spend the rest of your holiday weekend.
Thanksgiving is just around the corner with all of it's yummy treats. Perhaps you are thinking of making your dog or cat a special treat for the big day. In Traditional Chinese Medicine, food is looked at differently. Food is considered to have therapeutic properties, like an extension of herbs. Foods have the ability to influence the level of Yin or Yang within you. Your pet may need a little more yin, so a pet friendly version of turkey, stuffing and cranberry would be a great treat. Maybe they need a little more yang, so ham and pet version of pumpkin pie should be on their plate. A yin/yang balanced treat could be an egg, carrot, pea and apple pie. With any of these treats always hold the butter and sugar, a case of pancreatitis is not a fun way for you or your pet to spend the rest of your holiday weekend.
September 2014
The fall and winter holidays can be very stressful for everyone, including our pets. Does your hound dog find Halloween horrible? Is your tabby terrified of all of the extra traffic in the house during Thanksgiving? Do all the Christmas carolers drive your collie crazy?
There are many options one can try to help lower your pets' stress level, a few that we like include:
Acupuncture.
Herbs.
Species specific pheromone plug ins to reduce anxiety for dogs and cats.
Behavior modification techniques for pets and crowds.
Ideally theses techniques would be started well before the holidays, to optimize your pet's success. Sometimes better late than never is the only option you've got.
The fall and winter holidays can be very stressful for everyone, including our pets. Does your hound dog find Halloween horrible? Is your tabby terrified of all of the extra traffic in the house during Thanksgiving? Do all the Christmas carolers drive your collie crazy?
There are many options one can try to help lower your pets' stress level, a few that we like include:
Acupuncture.
Herbs.
Species specific pheromone plug ins to reduce anxiety for dogs and cats.
Behavior modification techniques for pets and crowds.
Ideally theses techniques would be started well before the holidays, to optimize your pet's success. Sometimes better late than never is the only option you've got.
July 2014 - Summer is here!
They are not called the dog days for nothing! Summer is full of more frisbee time, extra ball chasing, hikes in the woods and the oh so fun jumping into the lake for a swim. All of these are great exercises, but as with any sport, injuries can happen. Catching frisbees is rather twisty on the spine. Sometime they misjudge the ball and take a digger instead. Hiking trails sometimes have unexpected pot holes along the way. And docks can be slippery to jump off of.
If you notice your pup is not doing these activities like they did last time they got to play, you may want to consider getting a chiropractic adjustment for your dog.
They are not called the dog days for nothing! Summer is full of more frisbee time, extra ball chasing, hikes in the woods and the oh so fun jumping into the lake for a swim. All of these are great exercises, but as with any sport, injuries can happen. Catching frisbees is rather twisty on the spine. Sometime they misjudge the ball and take a digger instead. Hiking trails sometimes have unexpected pot holes along the way. And docks can be slippery to jump off of.
If you notice your pup is not doing these activities like they did last time they got to play, you may want to consider getting a chiropractic adjustment for your dog.
Thunderstorm season is well upon us and 4th of July fireworks are right around the corner! Is your canine friend afraid of the loud noises and flashes? Dr. Hittle will be presenting "Anxiety Problems In Dogs" on Thursday, June 26th AND Monday, June 30th at Appanasha Pet Clinic. Call 920-725-8307 to register! Seating is limited!
May 2014- HEARTWORMS KILL!
American Heartworm Society, Companion Animal Parasite Council (CAPC) and the American Association of Veterinary Parasitologists are now recommending YEAR ROUND heartworm prevention no matter what part of the country you live in. Here in Wisconsin it was very common for veterinarians to recommend heartworm prevention for just April through December or year round if you travel south for the winter. There is now sufficient evidence to prove that we are starting to see heartworms that are becoming resistant to heartworm medication in the southern United States, especially in the Mississippi River Valley. These "super" heartworms can be prevented by continuously giving heartworm prevention monthly year round. Much in the way bacteria becomes resistant to antibiotics from improper uses, the medication resistant strain for heartworms developed from having breaks from exposure to the medication. This is from people accidentally forgetting to give their pet the medication for even a month or from pets just plain not being on heartworm prevention. One could argue that "Hey, we live in Wisconsin this is not a problem in our area." This is a dangerous assumption to make. Many local rescue groups in the area get their dogs from higher kill shelters in the south. Personally a dog in my family came through a rescue group, he was from Mississippi and he was heartworm positive when he came to Wisconsin. He has been treated for the disease since then. But it is scary when you think about how an act of kindness can actually be spreading disease.
So remember even missing a dose could be enough for these super heartworms to cause an infection in your dog or cat. It is even more important now to make sure your dog has a yearly heartworm test and that you give your dogs and cats heartworm prevention year round. - Kalan
April 2014
Exciting news!
We have really wonderful clients and we always strive to do our best to make our services easily accessible to them. Thus, we are adding a new Fox Valley clinic location to our team in order to help serve our clients in the Appleton area better. Soon we will start seeing pets at the Appanasha Pet Clinic located at 1205 Wittmann Drive in Menasha. The Appanasha Pet Clinic is a beautiful and loving space to focus on your four legged family's wellness. Check out their website here.
Exciting news!
We have really wonderful clients and we always strive to do our best to make our services easily accessible to them. Thus, we are adding a new Fox Valley clinic location to our team in order to help serve our clients in the Appleton area better. Soon we will start seeing pets at the Appanasha Pet Clinic located at 1205 Wittmann Drive in Menasha. The Appanasha Pet Clinic is a beautiful and loving space to focus on your four legged family's wellness. Check out their website here.
HAPPY EARTH DAY 2014!
It was one year ago today that Naturally Balanced Veterinary Services went paperless. Looking back at out files, we have saved well over 2000 pieces of paper!
It was one year ago today that Naturally Balanced Veterinary Services went paperless. Looking back at out files, we have saved well over 2000 pieces of paper!
Technology not being so wonderful...
Sorry folks we have been experiencing problems with our office phone recently. We are working diligently to fix the problem. If you do not get us or our voice mail we apologize. Please try e-mailing us at [email protected] and let us know how we can help you.
Thank you for your patience and understanding with this situation!
Sorry folks we have been experiencing problems with our office phone recently. We are working diligently to fix the problem. If you do not get us or our voice mail we apologize. Please try e-mailing us at [email protected] and let us know how we can help you.
Thank you for your patience and understanding with this situation!
March 21, 2014 information on the Equine Herpes Virus 1 Outbreak in the Twin Cities
A really good review of a few specific points in the EHV1 outbreak from University of Minnesota Equine Center's Facebook page: As we go into the weekend, we wanted to post a quick update on the current status of the EHV-1 cluster. At present EHV-1 has been isolated from 4 horses with characteristic neurological signs. Tests are still outstanding on a few neurologic and non-neurologic suspect cases.
The good news is that there have been no new neurological cases identified over the past few days. The local horse community has been coming together wonderfully to address the situation, and affected properties and known exposed horses are under appropriate quarantine. For uninvolved horses and properties, the general recommendation is to avoid unnecessary transport and mixing of horses at shows, clinics, and competitions. Many, though not all, upcoming shows and clinics have been canceled.
One aspect of the situation that has been a point of confusion for many has been the fact that the “non-neuropathogenic” genetic variant of EHV-1 has been identified in each of the confirmed positive cases. This terminology is a bit unfortunate, as it is often interpreted to mean that only the respiratory form of EHV-1 has been diagnosed, or that biosecurity measures may be less rigorous. This is not the case! While the majority of outbreaks of neurological EHV-1 are caused by the “neuropathogenic” genetic variant, up to 25% of them are caused by the "non-neuropathogenic" type. It is not a particularly important distinction when dealing with an outbreak, as rigorous biosecurity measures must be imposed for both variants - this variant can simply be viewed as being somewhat “less neuropathogenic” than the more virulent alternative. The Minnesota Board of Animal Health only considers disease caused by the neuropathogenic variant to be reportable. Quarantines and event cancellations are voluntary and the responsibility for good decision-making resides firmly with horse owners and their veterinarians.
A really good review of a few specific points in the EHV1 outbreak from University of Minnesota Equine Center's Facebook page: As we go into the weekend, we wanted to post a quick update on the current status of the EHV-1 cluster. At present EHV-1 has been isolated from 4 horses with characteristic neurological signs. Tests are still outstanding on a few neurologic and non-neurologic suspect cases.
The good news is that there have been no new neurological cases identified over the past few days. The local horse community has been coming together wonderfully to address the situation, and affected properties and known exposed horses are under appropriate quarantine. For uninvolved horses and properties, the general recommendation is to avoid unnecessary transport and mixing of horses at shows, clinics, and competitions. Many, though not all, upcoming shows and clinics have been canceled.
One aspect of the situation that has been a point of confusion for many has been the fact that the “non-neuropathogenic” genetic variant of EHV-1 has been identified in each of the confirmed positive cases. This terminology is a bit unfortunate, as it is often interpreted to mean that only the respiratory form of EHV-1 has been diagnosed, or that biosecurity measures may be less rigorous. This is not the case! While the majority of outbreaks of neurological EHV-1 are caused by the “neuropathogenic” genetic variant, up to 25% of them are caused by the "non-neuropathogenic" type. It is not a particularly important distinction when dealing with an outbreak, as rigorous biosecurity measures must be imposed for both variants - this variant can simply be viewed as being somewhat “less neuropathogenic” than the more virulent alternative. The Minnesota Board of Animal Health only considers disease caused by the neuropathogenic variant to be reportable. Quarantines and event cancellations are voluntary and the responsibility for good decision-making resides firmly with horse owners and their veterinarians.
Sorry, NO TEXTS will be received until September 16th
Kalan is going on a super, amazing, much needed, long vacation! Dr Patty will be manning the phones and e-mails on her own during that time. Sadly, no text messages will go through until Kalan gets back on the 16th of September. Also know, it may take Dr Patty up to 48 hours to return your phone calls and e-mails since she is busy with taking care of patients during the day. Sorry for the inconvenience.
Dr. Patty is back!! 7/1/13
Dr. Patty is now able to treat all animals in Northeast WI. As of today, there are no more horse restrictions. We look forward to seeing our old friends and patients! Feel free to give us a call when you would like to schedule an appointment! (920)737-9605
Happy Earth Day 2013!
NBVS has been working to go paperless for a while AND now we are! The crazy part is the first day of paperless records landed on Earth Day by chance. How amazing, fantastic and totally appropriate is that!? Your pet's treatment notes and invoices will now be sent to your e-mail's inbox.
NBVS has been working to go paperless for a while AND now we are! The crazy part is the first day of paperless records landed on Earth Day by chance. How amazing, fantastic and totally appropriate is that!? Your pet's treatment notes and invoices will now be sent to your e-mail's inbox.
January 2013
NBVS welcomes Kalan Bavinck! As our business grows, we continue to focus on ways that we can serve you better! Thus, we are excited to announce the addition of a new team member, Kalan. She will be helping to answer the phones, make your appointments and assist Dr. Patty with the ins and outs of all the paperwork. Speaking of paperwork! NBVS is in the process of going paperless! Watch the website & Facebook page for updates on Kalan and our transition into the technologically advanced world.
NBVS welcomes Kalan Bavinck! As our business grows, we continue to focus on ways that we can serve you better! Thus, we are excited to announce the addition of a new team member, Kalan. She will be helping to answer the phones, make your appointments and assist Dr. Patty with the ins and outs of all the paperwork. Speaking of paperwork! NBVS is in the process of going paperless! Watch the website & Facebook page for updates on Kalan and our transition into the technologically advanced world.
